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Pacific Northwest

Stuck in another traffic jam. The third one this afternoon. After a long day at the office, you just want to get home. The sun is beating down; the heat shimmering off the pavement. The air-conditioning in your car is working overtime trying to keep up with the oven blast temperatures that surround you. You turn on the raidio; the station is playing "Hot Town, Summer in the City". You turn the radio back off and try to think cool thoughts - thoughts of deep evergreen shaded glades, of cool star-light evenings, the sound of Orcas splashing beside your yacht. Ahhh, that’s better. So much better in fact, that you try to figure out where you put that charter yacht catalog that you received from your charter agent.

You smile as you look out the window of the floatplane that is whisking you to your charter yacht in the San Juan Islands. Peering down on the cool green treetops of the very islands you will be visiting soon, you decide this could be one of the best ideas you had in a long time, and quite frankly, your family is inclined to agree with you for once!

The San Juan Islands are situated off the northwest corner of Washington State. The islands are the remains of an ancient mountain range that over the ages settled, surrounded by the sea, sculpted by glacial sheets that covered them and receded. The granite heart of the mountains remains, still displaying the scars of the glaciers’ journey southward. The soft glacial till which settled in the lowlands has fostered forests and meadows. The constant pounding of waves and blowing winds have formed a myriad of shapes along the coastline, ranging from wide, bay-bottom flats and long, curving sand spits to rugged, bedrock fissures that boldly challenge the never-ending surge of the waves.

This is a brawny, independent area that appeals to people who believe in their rights and are willing to stand up for them. This attitude is evidenced by one of the most important historical events in the area history, that of the “Pig War”. The San Juan Islands were originally part of the Oregon Country, which was land comprised of today’s states of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, parts of Montana and Wyoming, and the Province of British Columbia. The Joint Occupation Treaty of 1818 opened the Oregon Country to both British and American settlers. Of course, that was destined to fail as both sides tried to keep the other side out. By June of 1846, the Oregon Treaty was drawn up, giving the U.S. possession of the Northwest south of the 49th parallel, but created addition problems because its wording left unclear as to who really owned San Juan Island.

The Hudson’s Bay Company established a salmon-curing station on the island in 1851 and a sheep ranch called Bellevue farm. But there were also about 25 hardy Americans living on the island, and neither side recognized the authority of the other.

The crisis began on June 15, 1859, when an American settler shot and killed a pig belonging to the Hudson’s Bay Company because it was rooting in his garden. The British authorities threatened to arrest him, and the Americans reacted by drawing up a petition requesting U.S. military protection. The disagreement escalated until ultimately there were 461 Americans, protected by 14 cannons standing firm against five British warships with 167 guns and 2,140 troops. President Buchanan finally stepped in by sending out Gen. Winfield Scott to secure an agreement with the governor of the Crown Colony of British Columbia whereby a token force from each nation would occupy San Juan until a final settlement could be reached. The island remained under joint military occupation for the next 12 years, the agreement finally was sent to Kaiser Wilhelm I of Germany for settlement. The emperor ruled in favor of the U.S., and the Royal Marines withdrew from English Camp. By July 1874, the U.S. troops left American Camp and peace returned to the 49th parallel. San Juan Island will be remembered as a military confrontation in which the only casualty was a pig!

It is the sheer, glorious beauty of the area that is the main draw for visitors - not casinos, not the nightlife, not the shopping (though there is some wonderful local art available), not wild rides on Jetskis on gin-clear waters. No, it is the simple quiet pleasures of hiking, kayaking, fishing, watching in awe as Orcas put on a show right beside your boat, staring, slack-jawed as bald eagles wheel and float overhead. It is a place where the saying “take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints” is not just a saying, it is a way of life.

A charter in this area is synonymous with a carefree, active outdoor lifestyle, to be enjoyed like great gulps of the clean fresh air!

The number of San Juan Islands seems to be up for grabs; as there are anywhere from 172 to more than 700 islands. The question is what you count as an island. Can is just be a rock; and if the rock submerges during high tide, is it still an island? The best guess seems to be simply “more than 200”. The three largest islands are Orcas Island, San Juan Island and Lopez Island.

Lopez Island touts itself as “The Friendly Island”. Well, they all seem really friendly, but since Lopez Island is the least populated and has the highest concentration of people making their living by agriculture (and we all know that farmers are by their very nature, friendly) we will not argue the point and simply acknowledge that it IS the Friendly Island. One of the enterprises on Lopez is the Lopez Island Vineyards, which happens to be a nationally acclaimed winery. Indeed, a visit to their tasting room for a sample of their delicious and unique wines will probably make everyone friendly. The agriculture theme continues with the Farmers’ Market in Lopez Village, where an amazing variety of locally produced items are for sale, including rosemary necklaces.

San Juan Island is the second largest of the archipelago and the most heavily populated. You can visit the American Camp, located in the southern portion of the island, or the English Camp, located further up the coast to the northwest. Just leave your pig at home, please! The two towns on San Juan that are the most noteworthy for visiting are Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor. In the summer, there is a bus that makes a loop run between the two villages, letting you take in both places and a bit of inland scenery too, without spending too much time ashore! Friday Harbor, population 2000 is the government and commercial center of the San Juan Islands. But since it serves as the terminus for several ferries, the town swells with tourists during the summer months. The result is many boutiques, galleries, shops and restaurants to serve them. Roche Harbor dates back to 1886, and has played host to many famous people throughout the years. The historic Hotel de Haro played host to President Teddy Roosevelt in 1906 and 1907. John Wayne was also a frequent guest, in fact, his boat is still berthed in Roche Harbor Marina. A lively village full of history and fun, Roche Harbor should certainly be on your “to do” list!

Orcas Island is the largest of the San Juans, looking like a very chubby horseshoe, with the indentation being made by East Sound. The physical beauty of Orcas Island is its primary attraction. For those in great physical shape, a trip to the top of Mount Constitution on foot or by bike is possible; for those who prefer to save their energy for kayaking or other things, hiring a car to go to the top is a better option. Either way, the view is nothing short of spectacular. From the peak you can see the San Juan and Canadian Gulf islands, snow-capped Mount Baker, the Olympics, and on a clear day, Mount Rainier. The vista is definitely worth the effort.

Orcas Island has long attracted artists, working in traditional media such as oil and watercolor painting as well as fabric and pottery. Pottery in particular has a long tradition on the island, with creation, glazing and firing techniques passed down from one generation to another. The earthenware pottery that you buy, which is created and sold in the many galleries and studios, will serve as gentle reminders of the wonderful time you had when you visited the area.

The larger islands are what will bring you to the area, but it is the smaller, secret areas that your captain has discovered that will bring you back time and again. The quiet times you spent on your charter holiday, simply gazing out at the cool green of evergreen forests backing up to rocky shores, the laughter that spilled out as you learned to master your kayak, and the warmth of your loved one’s hand in yours as they squeezed it in happiness when they first saw the whales come close, this is what you work for. This is what memories are made of.

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