Admit it. You have always wanted to do this. A charter
destination that is easy to get to, where you fly into
a major airport and can be on your yacht within minutes.
A charter where you can sample great local cuisine,
experience an area rich in American history, a place
where there are sandy beaches, tiny islands and towering
lighthouses. Admit it. You wanted it and now you have
it. A charter from New York City to Newport, via Long
Island Sound. Time to get started.
Chelsea Piers. The perfect place to meet up with your
charter yacht. The largest gymnastics facility in the
state, the largest rock-climbing wall in the northeast,
the longest indoor running track in the world, a huge
fitness center, a golf driving range, an ice skating
rink, plenty of restaurants and pubs and a 1.2 mile
esplanade
now, this is the perfect place to have
a marina! Re-opened in their present glory in 1995,
Chelsea Piers were originally opened in 1910, after
30 years of talk and 8 years of construction. Designed
by the same architectural firm that designed Grand Central
Station, Chelsea Piers replaced a hodgepodge of run-down
waterfront structures with a row of magnificent buildings
embellished with a pink granite façade.
For the next 50 years, Chelsea Piers served the needs
of the New York port, ending in the 1960s as a
cargo terminal. After that, Chelsea Piers became a neglected
maritime relic, slated for demolition to make way for
a new highway. When the highway was not constructed,
they were sold at auction in 1992. By 1995, the present
day structures had been built, a testament to the foresight
of the new owners to create a facility that serves such
recreational diversity so there is literally, something
for everyone to enjoy.
The hazard to meeting your yacht at the Chelsea Piers
Marina is that it will take several hours to round everyone
back up from their various activities and get them back
on the boat. And dont leave behind the golfer
they
will be up on one of the top floors, happily whacking
balls into space and (admit it) aiming for the guy in
the little machine that is vacuuming up the balls on
the driving range. Once you have everyone back onto
the yacht, your crew will throw off the lines and ease
out into the Hudson River, giving you a tour of New
York Harbor before heading up the East River toward
Long Island Sound.
First stop will be in beautiful Greenwich, CT. Whether
you stop for a couple of hours, or overnight, there
is plenty to see and do in Greenwich. The Avenue is
where is all happens, and is only steps from the marina.
The Avenue is what the locals call trendy
Greenwich Avenue, the main street of this small upscale
community. This relentlessly upscale boulevard, with
its pricey boutiques, old-style department stores, and
fine restaurants caters to sophisticated pleasures.
There is also the Bush-Holley Historic House for the
history buff, Audubon Greenwich for the naturalist,
and of course, polo matches in the Back Country for
the polo enthusiast!
Leaving Greenwich behind, the next stop will be Norwalk.
Like many waterfront areas, South Norwalk (locally known
as SoNo) has undergone a radical transition
from run-down to rehabilitated. The enhancement of the
area centeres around the new Maritime Aquarium at Norwalk,
which focuses on and promotes the marine and maritime
life of Long Island Sound. Started in the mid-80s,
the Aquarium features not only sealife, but also a touch-tank,
boat-building demonstrations and restored sailing vessels.
The Lockwood-Mathews Mansion Museum is nearby and is
a 50-room, 1864 era estate filled with Victorian artifacts.
If the Aquarium and the Mansion arent to your
tastes, a quick trip to the world-famous Stu Leonards
will be. Billing itself as the Worlds Largest
Dairy Store, this is a grocery store that is more
fun than a carnival. Extraordinary, not ordinary is
what it is and must be seen and experienced to appreciate
it. Hint: make sure you get an ice cream cone when you
leave. Fresh, homemade
yum!
Once you have torn yourself away from the delights of
Stu Leonards and make it back to your charter
yacht, head across Long Island Sound to Oyster Bay.
In the mid-1700s, both the English and the Dutch
inhabited picturesque Oyster Bay, which accounts for
the fact that the place has two main streets just a
block apart. Which is a pretty rational explanation,
since if the town was started today and it had two main
streets, one would just attribute it to city council
members who couldnt come to a consensus! Oyster
Bay boasts several attractions: Raynham Hall, once the
home of a prosperous Revolutionary War-era merchant,
Planting Field Arboretum, and of course, Sagamore Hill,
the rambling hilltop estate that was once the summer
home of Theodore Roosevelt. If you only have time for
one excursion, go to Sagamore Hill and take one of the
tours given there. Perhaps one of the most striking
things about the house is its enormous number of preserved
animal parts. The rhinoceros-foot inkwell, the chair
made of moose antlers, the elephant-foot wastepaper
basket
well, you get the idea. A bit morbid, but
the kids will love it and maybe learn a bit of history
about a former president.
Close to Oyster Bay is the small tourist village of
Cold Spring Harbor. Tiny today, featuring only a few
shops and galleries, several historic buildings, and
two museums, it was a bustling whaling port in the mid-1800s.
The main street was called Bedlam Street during that
time, for the cacophony of foreign languages heard there.
On the villages outskirts was Bungtown, a small
settlement where barrels for whale oil were made.
A short trip up the coast brings you to the lovely restored
18th-century village of Stony Brook. Built on a hill
sloping down to the water, much of Stony Brooks
charm is due to Ward Melville, owner of the Thom McAn
Shoe Company. Back in the 1940s, Melville became
concerned about encroaching suburbia and had the village
rebuilt along historical lines while at the same time
successfully fighting for strict zoning codes. Thanks
to his foresight, Stony Brook is the delightful community
it is today.
Ready for a fright? Believe in ghosts? Then make sure
that you go to the Country House Restaurant while visiting
Stony Brook. Word has it, that the place is haunted.
Built originally as a farmhouse in 1710, it was used
as a stagecoach station in the late 1800s. The
restaurant was started in 1960. The ghost that haunts
the building is that of Annette Wilson, a young woman
who had been hanged by the British as a spy during the
Revolutionary War, and buried in a small graveyard on
the property. Her activity focuses around the kitchen,
where towels have been seen floating by several startled
witnesses!
Time to head back across the Sound to the Connecticut
side. Now is your chance to see a little bit of Maine,
because that is what the Thimble Islands resemble. A
little bit of Maine washed down to Connecticut shore
years ago, whether it was a monumental hurricane or
just some heavy currents, it really doesnt matter,
because there they are. No dockage here, just nice,
secluded anchorages. Perfect for a quiet lunch, a quick
swim, exploring the islands in the tender. Maybe relaxing
so much you wont want to leave for your next adventure:
a visit to Old Saybrook and Old Lyme, then on up the
Connecticut River to Essex.
Old Saybrook and Old Lyme each offer its own list of
attractions. Old Saybrook boasts most of the marinas
and most of the restaurants, but its biggest draw is
due to its 400 antique dealers clustered in four centers.
They take credit cards and they ship. Happy shopping.
Old Lyme still has tree-lined streets where gracious
captains homes sit back and watch the world go
by, just as they have done since the 1800s. If
art galleries are your passion, especially Impressionist
Art, then the Florence Griswold Museum is a must-see.
This circa-1817 mansion was once the site of one of
Americas most famous art colonies.
Welcome to the Number 1 Small Town in America. Or, at
least that is what quite a few magazines and newspapers
say every year. Although its on a river, many
consider Essex to be the quintessential seaside New
England village. With its many marinas and narrow, one-way
streets lined with antique houses, the town has maintained
much of its maritime heritage. In the last 300 years,
more than 500 vessels have been built in Essex. Take
your time, stroll the streets, poke into the shops,
or just sit on the dock and watch the activity. Steamboat
Dock is popular with crabbers and rod-and-reelers as
well as a well-mannered pack of Labradors who pursue
tennis balls
and ducks.
The have-to-go place in Essex is the Griswold Inn. It
has been in continuous operation since 1776 and a taproom
sign reads: Because we cater to yachtsmen, a coat
and tie are not required. Hint: dont even
think about going without a reservation.
Time to head back to your charter yacht and head further
on up the Connecticut coast to Mystic. After the English
captured this area, they kept the Pequot name Mystic
(originally mistick), meaning tidal river. Since the
seventeenth century, Mystic has been building boats.
It was at one time Connecticuts most important
and prosperous seaport with 20 whalers in its fleet
until 1860 when petroleum replaced whaleoil. Today the
Mystic Seaport Museum, the states number one attraction,
pays homage to the regions maritime history. The
17-acre living history museum that recreates a typical
nineteenth century New England seaport, was begun in
1929. It now contains more than 60 historic waterfront
buildings, 300 ships and boats, plus artifacts of early
maritime America. Interpreters in period dress staff
the shops, cook at the hearths and lead sea chanteys.
Interesting for the adults and loads of fun for the
children. The kids will even think that history is fun!
The next (and last) stop in Connecticut will be lovely
little Stonington. This tiny village is filled with
interesting architecture, ranging from colonial fishermmens
houses to federal mansions to Victorian gingerbread
homes. The community has a long and impressive list
of resident artists and writers, with their works displayed
in the local galleries.
Reminding visitors of Stoningtons past as a whaling
and sealing port, the Old Lighthouse Museum, on Stonington
Point, has a small museum containing seafaring artifacts.
The lighthouse tower affords a view of three states:
Fishers Island, New York; Rhode Island to the
east; and Connecticut, as well as vistas across Long
Island Sound. Look long and hard to the east, across
the Sound, for that is where you will be heading next.
Back over to Long Island, to visit Greenport on the
North Fork and Sag Harbor on the South Fork.
There is an unmistakable look about Greenport: laid
out in neat squares that slope down to the harbor, it
is filled with old captains houses half hidden
by the trees, fishermens cottage, funky antique
shops, lobster pots hanging on fences, the harbor always
full of fishing boats and pleasure craft. The Enterprise,
the successful Americas Cup defender of 1930 called
Greenport home, but the maritime industry has been active
here since the early 1700s when cargo ships from the
West Indies called here.
There are three things that you really must do while
visiting Greenport. The first is to ride the Carousel
in Harbor Front Park. Dating back to the 1920s,
this is the best $1 you will ever spend. If the music,
the feel of your steed as it charges around and around,
the breeze in you face dont make you smile, try
grabbing for the brass ring to win a second ride for
free. In short, be a kid again.
Second, visit S.T. Prestons, established in 1883.
An unforgettable rambling barn of a store filled with
everything from rope and paint to paintings and Top-Siders.
Now that you have worked up an appetite, stop by across
the street to Claudios restaurant for something
to eat. Feel better? Now, last, but not least, go visit
the East End Seaport Maritime Museum. Loaded with artifacts
of the sea, one of the most popular exhibits are the
Fresnel lenses, previously used in the lighthouses.
Most impressive is the Fourth Order lens originally
in the Plum Island lighthouse. Installed in 1897, it
produced an amazing 350,000 candle strength and was
visible for 14 miles. Dont worry, Plum Island
Lighthouse still has a light, just not one so strong.
Time to leave Greenport and head on over to Sag Harbor.
You will pass by Shelter Island on the way. Lying in
the middle of the bay between the North and South Forks,
it is a quiet retreat of wooded hills, solitary beaches
and expensive vacation homes it is reachable only by
ferry.
Originally named Wegwagonock by the Algonquin Indians,
when the first white settlers arrived around 1730 they
renamed it Sag Harbor. Most likely because they couldnt
pronounce Wegwagonock! It quickly became a booming whaling
port with a 31-boat whaling fleet at the height of its
heyday. Sag Harbor slipped into sleepy hibernation after
the whaling era ended, only to revive when tourism began
to boom in the 1980s. There are now about 2,500 permanent
residents, swelling to about 8,000 in the summer season.
There are plenty of shops and boutiques to explore along
Main Street, including an old-fashioned five-and-dime
store with two cigar-store Indians out front. There
is one last Museum to poke about in
the Sag Harbor
Whaling and Historical Museum, housed in a mansion built
in 1845. An endless jumble of exhibits, it more resembles
your Grandmothers attic than a museum. Some exhibits
are fascinating, others looking suspiciously like junk.
Since admission is only $3, it is well worth a couple
hours.
Time to get back to the boat. Time to head on North
to Newport, where you are ending your journey. You still
have a few hours cruising ahead, time to reflect on
how glad you are that you finally admitted to yourself
that this just might have been the best charter that
you have ever been on. You are relaxed, everyone had
a great time, the kids actually learned some history,
you finally have eaten all the lobster that you can
hold
the list goes on and on. Yes, this was a wonderful
vacation. Now you just wonder why it took you so long
to do it.