And here's the weather
report: 45 degrees under cloudy skies. Temperatures
dropping, sleet turning to snow overnight.
Tomorrow will have highs in the mid-20s, snow
accumulation is expected to be 3-5 inches.
Brrr. Go put on a second pair of
woolly socks and grab another sweater as you
head to the kitchen to make yourself a cup of
hot chocolate. Hmm, there sitting on the table
is the Distinctive Charter Yachts International
catalog you got yesterday. Maybe it’s time for
a charter escape. You’ve been to the Bahamas
several times, as well as having sampled most
of the Caribbean. Maybe this is the year to try
someplace new. Your criteria are simple: warm
waters, sunshine, beaches, seafood, nice reefs
to snorkel or dive and maybe some fishing.
Not too far, you don't want to spend 15 hours
flying. So where?
Welcome to the Bay Islands. Eight
islands and dozens of small cays, 92 square miles
in all, and only 30 miles off the coast of the
Honduras, the Bay Islands are waiting for you.
They are closer to Miami than Puerto Rico, but
light years away in feeling. No high rises, no
golf courses, only 1 asphalt road on Roatan, the
largest island (and that road only goes half way
around the island), no hard roads on the rest of
the islands. If you are looking for a slower pace,
a quiet place, then it is time to investigate the
Bay Islands. Appealing to the adventuresome
charter guest, the islands offer excellent diving
and snorkeling, fishing, untrammeled natural
beauty, secluded beaches and secret coves where
you will be on the only yacht. Sound like what
you are looking for?
The Bay Islands were first discovered
by Europeans by Christopher Columbus on
July 30th of 1502 on his fourth voyage to the
"New World". Seeing a high island covered
with pines, he named it Isla de Pinos and
claimed it, of course, for Spain. Accounts of
the discovery indicate that the
islands were quite fertile and
densely populated at that time,
and the aborigines enjoyed a
higher developed civilization
than those of the Greater
Antilles, Cuba and Hispaniola.
After Columbus claimed the
area for Spain, it bounced back
and forth between English rule, buccaneers,
back to Spanish, back to English until finally
on April 30th, 1859, England surrendered the
Bay Islands to the Republic of the Honduras.
Punta Gorda, on Roatan, is the only
Garifuna village on the island. The Garifuna
were originally known as "Black Caribs". The
English evacuated all her settlements on the
Bay Islands in 1788 and the islands lay deserted
of Europeans until 1797 when the English
removed by force some 5,000 "Black Caribs" (a
mixture of African Negro and Carib and Arawak
Indians) from St. Vincent and marooned them
on an empty beach in Roatan during the
winter. An unhappy beginning, but probably
more fortuitous than if they had remained in
St. Vincent.
Spanish became the official language
in 1872, but because of the strong British
influence, English is still spoken by the majority
of the adult population and as a second language
by the younger generation. Because of this,
mainland Hondurans often refer to the islanders
as "pirates", as a reference to their forebears and
the Islanders in turn call the mainlanders "those
Spaniards".
Getting there is fairly easy with flights
from Miami and New York into San Pedro
Sula on the mainland, then connecting flights
to Roatan. The local currency is the lempira.
Currently, one U.S. dollar is about 18.9
lempiras. So if nothing else, at least it seems
like your hard earned dollars go further in the
Bay Islands! Daily temperatures average 85º
with night time temperatures averaging 65º.
Hmm, sounds like a whole lot better than 45º
and sleet, doesn't it? For those who want to be
in the water, it’s usually in the low 80s in the
summertime and high 70s in winter. You'll still
want a wet suit or at least a shortie if you are
planning on staying underwater for a long time.
Rainy season runs from November to January.
Roatan is the largest of the Bay Islands,
and going there is like stepping
back in time 50 years or more.
Basically, one road, with a few
branches, links most of the
27 tiny communities on this
island that is only 33 miles long
and 4 miles wide. That road is
now asphalt, which is a major
improvement from several
years ago. Though there are no high rises and
no large resorts, Roatan has been discovered by
the cruise ship people, so it is not as unspoiled
as it once was. The best thing to do is avoid it
like the plague when the cruise ships pull in,
because all the prices go up. Not to mention,
you came here to get away from everything,
not to be inundated by tourists drinking rum
drinks and buying T-shirts. That's why you
are on a charter yacht so you can set your own
schedule.
The island has a mountainous
backbone and is totally surrounded by coral
reefs, which offer superb snorkeling and diving
as well as fishing. Roatan has two great wrecks
for the divers who would rather float over a
wreck than a reef: the 230-foot freighter El
Aguila, sunk in 1997 and the 300-foot freighter
Odyssey. Because it is the largest and most
developed, there are a myriad of interesting
things to do and try. For instance, you could
visit the Roatan Butterfly Gardens, the Museum
of Roatan, the Carambola Botanical Gardens
& Trails and Gumbalimba Park. Hmm, there
is also a Microbrewery and four zipline jungle
canopy tours. I think you will probably want to
schedule your zipline adventure first, followed
by a visit to the microbrewery! Or maybe
not…
The neighboring island of Guanaja is
only 11 miles long and 3 ½ miles wide with a
shoreline that ranges from white sandy beaches
to rocky cliffs overlooking the Caribbean
Sea. It is the tallest of the islands with one
peak reaching 1400 feet, originally covered by
Caribbean pine, it is the island that Columbus
first saw and named it Isla de Pinos…the island
of pines. Guanaja is the only Bay Island featuring
waterfalls. One is located a mere 15 minute stroll
from the beach. For the more adventuresome,
there another one that is a 45 minute mountain
hike, but the view is well worth the effort. Flocks
of parrots and hummingbirds in the trees will
keep you company on your hike. Since there are
no major roads on Guanaja, it remains one of the
few unspoiled islands in the Caribbean. It is the
least visited of the three main Bay Islands which
why it has retained the charm and tranquility
of the way other islands in the Caribbean felt
decades ago.
Guanaja is surrounded by reefs for
snorkelers and divers of all experience levels.
Further off shore, the waters team with wahoo,
tuna, dolphin, kingfish and marlin. Rather go fly
fishing? No problem. The flats of Guanaja are
loaded with schools of bonefish. Reportedly you
can see great schools of bonefish throughout the
day, every day which is why it has been reported
that Guanaja has the best bonefishing in the
world. Why, then, I ask, why have I STILL
not been able to catch one of those wily things?
Snook, tarpon, jacks and permits also populate
the flats. Even if you don't catch anything, it's
still a delightful way to spend several hours!
The population of
Guanaja is approximately
10,000 people, the majority
of which live on Bonacca Cay.
This very unusual town is a stilt
town, with the stilts anchored
on a submerged shoal, earning it
the nickname of "Venice of the
Honduras". The cay itself began as two adjoining
cays of about an acre. The channel between the
two was filled in and it is now an artificial island
of nearly 20 acres. The densely clustered wooden
buildings, painted in vivid tropical colors, give
the island a shimmering mirage like appearance
from the distance. It rather reminds one of a
tropical Ravinj the village in Croatia where the
homes seem to hold hands, lest they fall into the
ocean. Bonacca has this same feeling. Narrow
walkways and bridges over canals comprise the
"streets" of this community. The Mountain
View disco is the place to be on Saturday night.
It almost sways on its stilts. Okay, it does sway
on its stilts in time to the music!
Utila lies the closest to the Honduran
coast of the three major islands and is the
smallest and the flattest. The only town is in East
Harbor and is home to about 3,000 people. The
highest point is Pumpkin Hill which rises to the
dizzying height of 74 feet. There is a manmade
beach in its main town, but several other natural
white sand beaches dot its coast. The main
reason people come to Utila is to dive. Since the
entire archipelago of the Bay Islands runs along
the largest barrier reef in the Caribbean (second
largest in the world after Australia's Great Barrier
Reef ), all of the islands enjoy terrific snorkeling
and diving. But there is one thing that makes
Utila diving stand out from the rest: the whale
sharks.
Whale Sharks are harmless plankton
eaters that grow to an enormous size. The ones
commonly seen in the waters surrounding Utila
are between 20 feet and 33 feet. Most frequently
seen in the months of March and April and again
in August and September, the Whale Shark is
regularly sighted even during the "off" months.
Unlike real whales or dolphins that tend to travel
in pods, the Whale Shark is usually solitary. It
is not uncommon to see five or more singularly
during the migratory months. It is thought that
the oceanography surrounding Utila is the reason
for their frequent sightings. Utila is located at
the extreme northern margin of the Honduran
shelf and, unlike the other Bay Islands which
are separated from the shelf area by a deep, fault
controlled trench; the tropical island has shallow
banks to the south and a very large bank to the
north. Whatever the reason for the Whale Sharks
coming into such close proximity to Utila is
second only to the fact that they are there! Come
on, all you divers out there. Admit it, wouldn't
it be great to see one? And wouldn't you almost
swallow your regulator when it first comes into
view?
The snow continues outside your
window, but you no longer care. You have made
up your mind to escape to sunshine, warm
water, white sand beaches and butterflies. Escape
to a place where you can enjoy a breakfast of
island fruit on the aft deck of the yacht you have
chartered, and, when finished, leap into crystal
clear blue waters to enjoy the living aquarium
that surrounds your vessel. Forget the local
weather forecast, it's time to discover secluded
beaches and secret coves and claim them as your
own. The Bay Islands are a little bit paradise set
off from the rest of Caribbean, where it is still
possible to indulge in the dream of forgetting
about everything. It's easy, just pick up the
phone and call your charter agent.