Northern Exumas | View a sample itinerary for this location

Webster's New World Dictionary defines paradise as "any place of great beauty and perfection." No doubt Mr. Webster would have included the Exumas in his description of paradise had he ever sailed the crystal-clear waters surrounding this island chain. Just imagine 100 or so square miles of water ranging in color from light green to deep blue-this "many-shaded sea" is home to the 365 cays and islands that form the paradise known as Exuma.

The Exumas are one of many island chains that make up the Bahamas. They're part of a group of islands that includes Bimini, Eleuthera and the Abacos-a group traditionally known as the Bahamas "Out Islands." Though the Out Islands have long been popular with the boating crowd, they aren't as recognized as the Bahamas' busy tourist hub of Nassau/Paradise Island.

Nassau/Paradise Island is the cultural, social, political and economic center of the Bahamas-in other words, it's where the action is! Nearly half of the nation's residents live here, and it's the most popular tourist spot in the islands. Just 185 miles southeast of Miami, it's often referred to as the "gateway to the Bahamas," and is a common starting point for the many brave souls seeking an Out Island adventure.

The Nassau/Paradise Island area is actually two separate islands connected by two bridges. The historic city of Nassau, on New Providence Island, is the capital of the Bahamas. Despite a growing intrusion of the modern world, the city has retained its laid-back tropical atmosphere and still serves up a good dose of British colonial charm.

Directly across the bridge from Nassau is Paradise Island-home to several world-class resorts and casinos, and some of the most popular beaches in the Bahamas. The centerpiece of Paradise Island is the Atlantis Resort and Casino. This mega-resort has pools, beaches, restaurants, marine habitats, water slides and a sheltered marina where some of the most luxurious yachts in the world are anchored.

But if your sites have been set on the less traveled waters of the Out Islands, be prepared to take a step back in time to a place that is considered by many to be the "real" Bahamas-the heart and soul of this island nation. These remote, beautiful and mysterious islands seem worlds away from the bustle of the Bahamas' capital.

The most remote of the Out Islands is undoubtedly the Exumas. Though the 365 cays and islands of the Exuma chain begin just 35 miles southeast of Nassau-lying smack in the middle of the Bahamas chain-they've managed to remain mostly undisturbed. Not as developed as the Abacos and Eleuthera, these islands are widely revered for their unspoiled beauty. From the gin-clear waters to the secluded beaches, coral gardens and natural harbors, the Exuma islands take paradise to a new level!

Lacking the fanfare found on the other island chains, the nightlife, shopping and dining are typically informal and low-key. "Unspoiled" seems to be the buzzword for the Exumas-not only when describing the natural environment, but when referring to the islanders as well. The people of Exuma are warm, open and proud of their islands. Most families have lived in the cays for generations and can trace their roots back more than 200 years. In fact, many of the islands' residents are direct descendents of plantation slaves from the late 1700s.

But it's not the friendly islanders that draw adventurous souls here again and again. The main attraction is without a doubt the natural beauty that can be found above and below the waters surrounding these islands. The Exumas' cruising grounds are considered to be the most beautiful in the Western Hemisphere-if not the world. The tidal ebb and flow between the shallow Great Bahama Bank and the deep cobalt blue of the Exuma Sound creates dramatic color contrasts between every island.

Beneath the water, the Exumas are teeming with undersea life. Much of the island chain is encompassed by the Exuma National Land and Sea Park. This 22-mile-long reserve is one of the major natural wonders and sightseeing destinations of the Bahamas, with an abundance of marine life, coral reefs, blue holes and shipwrecks. Inland, the park is home to several species of rare birds as well as the rare and protected Bahamian iguana.

It's safe to say that a visit to any of the Exuma cays won't be disappointing-they all have the requisite white sandy beaches, private anchorages and great snorkeling and diving spots. But some of these destinations have unique offerings worth mentioning. Traveling down the Exuma chain, visitors can count on a few fun encounters...

Encounter is the operative word when describing a visit to Allan's Cay. Arriving beachside here may leave you feeling like you've stepped into a scene from Jurassic Park. As many as 30 rare Bahamian iguanas are usually waiting to greet visitors-and these sociable guys are expecting a treat!

The charm of nearby Norman's Cay comes from its colorful (to put it nicely) past. Norman's gained notoriety in the late '70s when it was the base for a very profitable drug smuggling operation. Today, the wreckage of a DC3 lies in the harbor, serving as a reminder of those less tranquil days. Local legend has it that the plane's pilot had been sampling his cargo when he tried to land on a moonbeam instead of the airstrip! The downed plane now provides a fun snorkeling adventure.

Heading south you'll find Warderick Wells, headquarters of the Exuma National Land and Sea Park and a favorite gathering place for cruisers. Miles of nature trails leading to secluded beaches is the highlight here. And a personal welcome from park warden Ray Darville is always a treat for visitors.

Halfway down the Exuma chain, tiny Sampson Cay and nearby Staniel Cay are the main attractions. Sampson Cay is one of the safest anchorages in the Exumas and is considered a natural "hurricane hole." Staniel Cay, home of the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, is a popular stopover for the yachting crowd.

Just off Staniel Cay is Thunder Ball Grotto, one of the most beautiful diving and snorkeling spots in the Bahamas. Fans of 007 flicks will recognize this famous grotto from Thunderball and Never Say Never Again. Scenes from these Bond movies were filmed here. Snorkeling the cave has been described as swimming in a giant tropical fish bowl with sunlight shining through. The southern end of the Exuma chain is anchored by Great and Little Exuma, where most of the 3,600 Exuma residents live. Great Exuma is the single largest landmass of the island chain, and is also home to the capital city. George Town is a tranquil seaport village that opens onto Elizabeth Harbor, a 15-mile-long anchorage that was once a favorite rendezvous point for pirates.

This beautiful harbor has prompted some Exumians to speculate that perhaps Columbus' first landfall in the New World was in the Exumas-not San Salvador, as widely believed-because Columbus wrote enthusiastically in his journal about a harbor that could hold "all the ships in Christendom." Today, the anchorage draws a yachting crowd from all over the world.

In April, Elizabeth Harbor plays host to the annual Family Island Regatta (sometimes referred to as the Out Island Regatta). In this classic race, workboats from all over the islands compete for the championship of the Bahamas. Beginning a few days before the race, visitors mob the island, liquor flows freely, and the village launches into a weeklong festival of food, music, dancing and serious fun.

The harbor is protected by nearby Stocking Island. Known for its white-sand beaches and the Mysterious Cave, which is accessible only to divers, Stocking Island faces the town less than a mile across the bay.

Connected to Great Exuma by a 200-yard-long bridge is Little Exuma and its beautiful Tropic of Cancer Beach. The imaginary line that divides the tropic and temperate zones is said to run right along this beach. The waters are so crystal clear that you can often see the colorful tropical fish more than 60 feet down.

And in nearby Pretty Molly Bay, just try to catch a glimpse of the beautiful but elusive mermaid who is said to live here. Pretty Molly was a slave who committed suicide by walking into the water one night-the natives claim that her ghost can still be seen walking the beach at night.

Most Out Island adventures end where they begin-back in the Bahamas' capital. Imagine spending your last day in the islands lounging by the pool, reflecting on the incredible discoveries you made in the beautiful and remote Exuma Cays, warming your thoughts with yet another fruity rum drink hand-delivered to you poolside-mmm...sounds like paradise to me!

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