Cruising from Ft. Lauderdale, FL to Beaufort, NC
Imagine lying in your bed. It’s morning, still dark out. You hear the engines turn on and the sounds of people moving on deck. You lie there, trying to decide whether to turn over and go back to sleep or get up and greet the day. The decision made, you throw the covers back, grab your clothes and leap out of bed. The yacht is still swathed in shadows, but coffee and juice is waiting for you to help yourself. Hands cradling your coffee cup, you head on up to the flybridge and sink down onto one of the settees to watch the action.

Captain Chris is at the helm and the lines are being quickly thrown off. With the lines and all crew back onboard, he slowly eases Viaggio out of her slip and into the Intracoastal.

The lights of Ft. Lauderdale twinkle as you quietly motor by, a city slowly waking to a brand new day. The sky is brightening as you head under the 17th St. Causeway, past Port Everglades and on out the inlet to the open ocean. Clearing the last buoy, Captain Chris slowly pushes the throttle forward and Viaggio leaps to his command. You are soon zipping along at 25 knots, heading north as the sun pops up over the horizon. And you are glad you chose to come up to greet the day and enjoy the beauty of a perfect sunrise.

This is the tempo of life that you choose for the next few days… up with the sunrise, five to six hours running at sea, then into the next city for the adventures that await you there.

For you have chosen a charter adventure, you have chosen a Delivery Charter. Each spring a graceful parade of yachts makes their way up the Eastern seaboard from Florida to New England, and each fall they retreat from the chilly weather to the warmth of Florida, the Bahamas, or the Caribbean. Knowing the boats do this every year gives you, the charter guest, the chance to avail yourself to one of the best kept secrets in the charter industry… the Delivery Charter. Typically priced less than the published weekly charter rate, the Delivery Charter allows you to experience the lure of the open sea or a leisurely cruise up the Intercoastal Waterway. Most “tweens”, as in “between here and there”, charters will head for their ultimate destination several hours per day, putting into port with plenty of time for you to enjoy a game of golf, sightseeing, shopping, or whatever catches your fancy.

You will want to discuss price with your charter agent, and daily schedules with your captain. Viaggio cruises at 25 knots per hour, a large displacement yacht motors at about 12 knots, and a sailboat less than that. So in deciding where you want to go, what you want to do and how long you want to be on board will depend greatly on how fast the vessel is that you choose. One of the great beauties of a charter along the Eastern seaboard is that of choice. You have the choice of running along the coast in the open sea, or taking the ICW, the watery highway that runs the length of the coast. If the weather turns rough, the Intracoastal offers a calm, flat passage, lined with beautiful homes and enchanting villages.

I am the fortunate one, and have been invited to experience a Delivery Charter on Viaggio, a new 75' Viking sport yacht. We chose to make a long run the first day, Ft. Lauderdale to St. Augustine, roughly 250 miles, pulling into the town marina by late afternoon. The beauty of a Delivery Charter is not just the daily destinations, it is the time getting there that is often the unexpected joy. Something happens at sea, and serenity sneaks up on you. The book you were engrossed in lies forgotten in your lap as you gaze at the endless, changing ocean. Watch for dolphins as they will surely show up to play in the wake behind the boat. Schools of flying fish bolt from their watery home to skitter across the waves, crashing headlong back into the sea. If you are very lucky, the ocean very calm, you might catch sight of a sea turtle as it rises to watch you go by. An air of lassitude washes over you, and the journey becomes more than just one of motion, it becomes a journey of thought also, a chance to wander down avenues of ideas normally abandoned to daily concerns.

We pull into St. Augustine after a fabulous first day at sea. The weather has been perfect, flat seas and bright sunshine. St. Augustine is known as the United States’ oldest permanently occupied European settlement, founded by the Spanish in 1565. The city marina where we dock lies at the foot of the famous Bridge of Lions, built in 1927, linking St. Augustine with Davis Shores. As we disembarked, Viaggio crew member Sarah pointed to the water and excitedly urged us to “look, look!”… a large school of rays were doing a slow motion ballet inches from the surface
of the water. They danced for us for several minutes, then disappeared into the depths. Nice of St. Augustine to welcome visiting yachties with such an enchanting show!

The city’s history has been meticulously preserved, within an easy walk of the city marina you will find more than enough to keep you busy for several days, if you had the time and desire to do so. Historical Highlights within a 10 minute walk of the city marina: Old St. Augustine Village (a living history museum with a collection of historic houses, courtyards and gardens), the Colonial Spanish Quarter (another living history museum), the oldest wooden schoolhouse, Castillo de San Marcos (the fort), and the Fountain of Youth. St. George Street is a pedestrian promenade for part of its length, and a narrow one way street the rest of the way. It is THE street, filled with shops, restaurants, and most of the historical sites are located there also, including the Government House Museum and Information Center. There are fabulous restaurants catering to every taste, but the Mill Top Tavern with its water wheel and tree house atmosphere is a top choice. But then again, there’s Scarlett O’Hara’s, and also… okay, you get the picture. Plenty of terrific choices.

I arose early the following morning and was treated to a spectacular vision as the sun rose over the Bridge of Lions. It was Sunday morning and a quiet walk around this magnificent town was the perfect way to start the day. Gazing at the impressive edifice of the former Ponce DeLeon Hotel, the sound of carillon bells from a nearby church filled the air with heavenly music. I finished my stroll with a stop at the Bunnery for fresh, still-warm sticky buns to take back to Viaggio, and headed back to the marina.

Our next port was a short hop up the coast. Fernandina Beach is a cozy, unpretentious fishing village known for its shrimp boats, giving no evidence of its early history of “Capture the Flag.” By the time this barren peninsula was ceded by Spain to the U.S. in 1821, at least eight separate flags had flown over Fernandina, making it the most diversely disputed parcel of land in the nation. One of the big draws today is its proximity to Amelia Island… and all of the incredible golf courses to be sampled there. If you are a golfer, for heaven’s sakes, bring along your clubs!
North of Fernandina Beach, we made the choice to run outside up to Charleston, then on up to Beaufort, North Carolina. The other option would have been to follow the ICW up the inside, an option I will detail following describing our choice.

We left Fernandina Beach at first light, easing out past the shrimping boats as the mist dissipated. The sun rose, changing from deep red, to golden, to blazing. As luck would have it, the seas were absolutely flat and Viaggio sprinted along, pulling into Charleston shortly after lunch. Ft. Sumter stands watch as you enter Charleston Harbor. The battle fought there April 12, 1861 ignited the Civil War. A national monument, it remains a powerful symbol to both the North and the South as a memorial to all who fought to hold it. History enfolds you in Charleston. Elegant mansions line the waterfront, sharing space with parks filled with fountains and towering oak trees dripping with Spanish moss.

Horse drawn carriages filled with tourists amble by, their guides busily describing the sights as they go. Take a walking tour perhaps, there are many themed tours, including the Ghost and Graveyard Walk, touring Charleston’s oldest graveyards… after dark. Or just grab a map from the tourist information center and wander around on your own. Just don’t miss the Market! Starting at the corner of Meeting and (what else?) Market Streets, the Market is blocks long. Originally much smaller and built to be a food marketplace, it now is home to knick-knacks, gifts, watches, specialty hot sauces, and hand-made sweetgrass baskets. The basket sellers are usually outside at the ends of the market buildings, the ladies surrounded by their wares as they weave their magic into their next design.

Charleston is definitely worth a two-day stop on your itinerary, there is so much to do. But, we needed to keep heading North, so we were passing Ft. Sumter as the sun peeped over the horizon as we left the next morning. Up the coast we ran, heading for Beaufort, North Carolina. Beaufort (pronounced Bo-fert, not byoo-fert like Beaufort, South Carolina) is North Carolina’s third oldest town. A fishing village since the 1600’s, by the 1700’s there was so much shipping traffic that the harbor was designated a seaport and a Customs office was erected. All of this action also attracted even more colorful characters, namely pirates, including the legendary Blackbeard. Although Beaufort did not escape the hardships of the Civil War, it did escape much of the physical damage.

Though not graced with Charleston-style mansions, the neat homes that populate Beaufort make a statement for a simpler lifestyle. Charming is a greatly overused word, but I can think of no better description of Beaufort than: charming. Strolling the streets and lanes of the village, I began to think that there certainly must be a city ordinance proclaiming that “every house must, by law, have a porch, and on that porch, a minimum of two rocking chairs, and space permitting, a porch swing”.

Virtually every home was garnished with a shaded porch, often with flowers and vines framing it, and on every porch resided at least two rocking chairs. Life seemed to slow down here, and I wanted nothing more than to just sit a spell on one of those porches.
We sadly left at first light the next morning, relentlessly heading North. I will continue our saga on Viaggio in another article, as I will now backtrack to investigate the possibilities of having come North via the Intracoastal, versus the open sea. The logical place to start is back a Fernandina Beach, then on up the ICW, protected from the open sea by the series of barrier islands. The first of these barrier islands, Cumberland Island, is sixteen miles long, the largest of the barrier islands, and is a designated National Seashore. You will probably catch glimpses of the herds of wild horses that live there, along with deer, mink, otter, and of course, alligators.

Jekyll Island, and the islands on up to St. Simons Island are known as the Golden Isles. Jekyll Island was home to many of the late 19th century American tycoons (Rockefeller, Pulitzer, Morgan and McCormick) and their “cottages” now form the historic district. On the mainland, the quiet port city of Brunswick has a decidedly British flavor not usually found in Georgia towns, thanks to its Victorian architecture. Yes, this is the home of Brunswick Stew, so make sure you try some! Need to stretch your legs? The Sea Palms Golf and Tennis Resort on St. Simons Island is ready for your racquet or clubs, which ever you happened to pack.

Continuing our leisurely way up the Intercoastal, next stop: Savannah. Ever since the book and movie Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil came out in the 90s, Savannah has been in the tourism limelight. There are plenty of museums (including Ships of the Sea Museum), dozens of restored homes, and tons of shops to explore. Many of these shops border the Savannah River. All of the cobblestone along Factors Walk and the River Street area comes from the stone ballast from merchant ships in the 1800’s.

Hilton Head Island is a short jaunt on up the ICW and a “must stop” for the golfers. The main attraction of Hilton Head is just that: golf. There are several courses to choose from, and with tennis being the second most popular activity, you can always swing your racquet when you have finished teeing up! If neither of these sports strike your fancy, but the golfer of the group insists on playing, grab a bike (rental bikes are available everywhere you look) and make use of the bike path… 25 smoothly paved miles leading you through shady residential areas past golf resorts and marinas.

Beaufort, South Carolina (byoo-fert, remember?) is the quintessential Southern town. It is impossible to walk here; you have to stroll. It is a town of old money… really old money, as in, it was once known as “the Newport of the South”. Beaufort presents the ideal Southern town setting so well that numerous movies have been made here. Remember Forrest Gump, Prince of Tides, The Big Chill? All made in Beaufort. The downtown area, in its entirety, is on the National Register of Historic Places. It owes its state of preservation to the fact that the Union army occupied the town all during the Civil War and used it as a headquarters and hospital zone, thereby keeping it safe from battle. Take a carriage ride, stroll with a walking tour, rent a bike, hit the links or swing your tennis racquet, it’s all there waiting for you.

Charleston would be the next stop, but since we have already covered that genteel port, we will progress on up to Myrtle Beach and the Grand Strand. This area takes the glitz and tackiness of Atlantic City and combines it with the family fun of Disney World. Myrtle Beach is a town made for the vacationer, and if you get bored here, it is certainly your own fault. Like Hilton Head, the one activity that defines this area like no other is: golf. At last count, there were upwards of 83 golf courses in the area, plus driving ranges and par-3 courses. There is so much golf available that you might just have problems dragging the golfers of the group back onto the boat. Is there a country boy or cowgirl onboard? They are sure to enjoy Myrtle Beach’s 25 country music theaters. YeeHa! If you have kids traveling with you, head over to the Amusement Park, plus don’t forget about the miniature golf courses, bumper boats, go-carts, and museums. Still have energy left? Use it to choose a restaurant…there are only about 1,500 to choose from. Now that you are tired and full, let’s head out to our next destination: Cape Fear.

Cape Fear, North Carolina was named out of respect for the area’s treacherous waters, and perhaps also for the pirates that used to terrorize the region’s people. On the Cape Fear River, the graceful town of Southport combines New England and the tropics. Palm trees sway beside stately oaks shrouded in Spanish moss, lining streets of plantation-style homes and winsome cottages. A slower pace than that of frantic Myrtle Beach, antiques shops beckon you to linger, or hangout at Waterfront Park, or maybe meander along the Riverwalk. From Cape Fear the next “large” town is Beaufort, North Carolina. The Intercoastal winds slowly along, with stately homes facing you as you go by. Leisurely is the best way to describe the pace, both the speed of your vessel, and the tempo of life beside the ICW.

There is much to see and do in the area that stretches from Ft. Lauderdale to New York. Yet there are few charter yachts based along the coast, making the best way to experience this area a Delivery Charter. An advantage too, is that the marinas are not crowded with other charter yachts, which certainly happens at the yacht’s end destination. Golfers will find the ICW their ultimate choice if planning a Golf Charter is the main attraction of their Delivery Charter. Remember, the yachts head North in May and June, South in September. Discuss with your charter agent to find the vessel that suits you the best, plan an itinerary with your captain to take the most advantage of your adventure.

The fast pace of Viaggio was perfect for us. The weather stayed calm the entire trip, but it was always a comfort to know that if the winds had picked up and the seas had become rough, we could have taken the Intercoastal Waterway and been protected while we proceeded. The Delivery Charter… the best kept secret in the charter industry.

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